THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN
MODEL: 31100P
YEAR: c1994
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 33.5MM
CASE MATERIAL: PLATINUM
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND

Often overlooked in the shadow of Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet’s formidable marketing machines, Vacheron Constantin has long been the quiet sibling of the “Holy Trinity”—and certainly the least talked about. Yet it remains the oldest watchmaker in continuous operation, founded in 1755, with an uninterrupted history spanning over 270 years. It’s easy to see why the brand’s reputation has endured.

A self-described blend of tradition and innovation, Vacheron Constantin has produced countless notable references, backed by a wealth of patents and horological firsts. Most recently, the manufacture broke its own record for the most complicated watch ever made: the Berkley Grand Complication, boasting 63 complications (up from its previous record of 57). But, as with all things, sometimes less is more. While Vacheron excels at technical brilliance, it is equally capable of executing refined simplicity.

That balance is evident in references such as the ref. 31100 here, better known as the “Toledo.” Though rarely in the spotlight, it exemplifies VC's blend of old-world elegance and playful modernity. The stepped, gently curved case narrows around the crown, creating a distinctive profile that feels both classical and contemporary. The present example is a particularly rare variation in platinum. From our research, only a handful of examples have ever surfaced.

The dial features a subtle horizontal wave motif, applied pyramid hour markers, and applied arrow markers at twelve, three, six, and nine. At six o’clock, it bears the Sigma–Swiss–Sigma hallmark, with two Greek sigma symbols flanking the word "Swiss." Introduced in the early 1970s by L'Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l'Or (APRIOR), the Sigma designation indicates the use of solid gold components on the dial, such as the hour markers and hands.

Modern enthusiasts may overlook this watch because of its slim profile and modest case size. At 33.5 mm, it is small by contemporary standards, but we challenge even those with larger wrists to try on the 31100, where it nestles into the wrist rather than perching on top. In this instance, bigger is not always better.

The watch is powered by the manual-wind calibre 1132.1, recently serviced and running at +3 s/d, with 255° amplitude and a 0.3 ms beat error. It comes with its original platinum buckle, and we have had these straps custom-made by our friends at The Strap Tailor.

For dressier occasions—or simply as a distinctive step away from the mainstream—you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more elegant companion.