THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN
MODEL: 31100/00J-3
YEAR: 1990s
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 33.5mm
CASE MATERIAL: 18K YELLOW GOLD 
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND

Often overlooked in the shadow of Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet’s massive marketing machines, Vacheron Constantin has long been the quiet sibling of the “Holy Trinity”—and certainly the lesser known. Yet it remains the oldest watchmaker in continuous operation, founded in 1755 (an unbroken 268-year history), and it’s easy to see why the brand’s reputation endures.

A self-described mix of tradition and innovation, Vacheron Constantin has produced many notable modern references, backed by a wealth of patents and horological firsts. Most recently, they broke their own record for the most complicated watch ever made: the Berkley Grand Complication, boasting 63 complications (up from their previous 57). But as with all things, sometimes less is more. And while Vacheron excels at technical brilliance, they are equally capable of executing refined simplicity to perfection.

That balance is evident in references like the 31100, better known as the “Toledo.” Though rarely in the spotlight, it exemplifies the house’s blend of old-world elegance with a playful modern sensibility. The stepped, curving case—crafted from solid 18k yellow gold—narrows at the waist around the crown, creating a distinctive profile that feels both classical and contemporary.

The dial features a subtle horizontal wave motif, solid pyramid gold markers, and tapered gold batons at twelve, three, six, and nine. At six o’clock it bears the Sigma–Swiss–Sigma hallmark, with two Greek sigma symbols flanking the word Swiss. In the 1970s, L’Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l’Or (APRIOR) introduced this designation to highlight the use of gold in watch components.

Modern enthusiasts may overlook this watch for its slim profile and modest case size. At 33.5 mm, it is small by contemporary standards, but we challenge even those with larger wrists to try on the 31100—where it nestles into the wrist rather than perching on top. In this instance, bigger is not always better.

The watch is powered by the manual-wind Caliber 1132.1, recently serviced and running at +6 seconds per day with 270 amplitude and a 0.3 ms beat error. It comes with its solid 18k gold buckle and brown exotic leather strap. For dressier occasions, or simply as a distinctive step away from the mainstream, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more elegant companion.