THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: UNIVERSAL GENÈVE
MODEL: 881101/2
YEAR: 1967
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 36MM
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND
I remember my (Tommy’s) first time seeing a Universal Genève Compax on Hodinkee’s Instagram in the early 2010s (incidentally the infancy for both Hodinkee and Instagram...), and thinking to myself, this is the most beautiful watch I’ve ever seen: but what the hxxx is Universal Genève? Little did I know that within weeks, I had become obsessed with vintage watches, in particular UGs.
UG remains my favourite brand to this day, and I often try to rationalise why: the obvious reasons are that they left behind such a huge catalogue of watches, from time-only jewellery-like pieces to complicated chronographs; they were beautifully made, yet their prices were still very approachable (perhaps less so for certain models in recent years); and perhaps that it’s a brand that only watch enthusiasts would know about.
The answer could also be a lot simpler: just look at this watch. The ref. 881101 came from the Tri-Compax line, which debuted in 1944 at Baselworld. It was one of the final iterations of the Tri-Compax, but easily the most recognisable thanks to a certain Eric Clapton, who famously adored the watch. This “Evil Clapton”, ref. 881101/2, features a matte black dial with four symmetrical white subdials (chronograph minute, hour, running seconds, and date/moonphase at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock respectively), day/month windows with red wheels, a tachymeter bezel, and is finished with a striking red chronograph hand. Amazingly, all of these complications fit within a 36 mm case, powered by the cal. 281 movement, and still look beautifully balanced. To me, it's one of the most beautiful wristwatches ever made.
The case has been polished before but remains very strong. The serial and model numbers on the caseback are still clearly visible (the initial engravings on these Tri-Compaxes are particularly thin, and many were worn away over the years). The dial is clean, and all of the tritium plots are in place and have aged to a beautiful pumpkin hue.
The watch was sold before we had a chance to advertise it, but it’s simply too good for us not to share with the world. Only recently, I was fortunate enough to spot a ref. 881101/3 (feel free to Google...), which took my breath away. Thankfully, the owner is as cool as the watch, and we quickly became friends over it. Such is the magic of vintage watches, and Universal Genève.