THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 16523
YEAR: 1997
BOX/PAPERS: YES/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 40MM
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL/18K YELLOW GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL/18K YELLOW GOLD
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
The Rolex 165xx line, introduced in 1988, marks an important chapter in the brand’s history as the very first automatic Daytona models. Nicknamed the "Zenith Daytona", these watches are powered by the Rolex calibre 4030—a heavily modified version of the Zenith El Primero movement—instead of the Valjoux-based hand-wound calibres found in earlier four-digit Daytonas. The 165xx line also introduced a completely redesigned, larger, and more modern case, one that laid the foundation for the Daytona models we see today.
Over the past two decades, Zenith Daytonas have become increasingly popular among collectors, and deservedly so. The three subdials are perfectly symmetrical and centred, preserving the iconic look of their four-digit predecessors. As the only Daytona series with a five-digit reference, Zenith Daytonas were produced for a relatively short period between 1988 and 2000 (compared to 1963–1988 for four-digit models, and 2000–present for six-digit models).
While stainless steel variants (16520) remain among the most popular Daytona models—especially early examples like the Mk1 and Mk2, which now command over £50k—two-tone versions of the Zenith Daytona are, in our opinion, still grossly underappreciated. The watch we have here dates to 1997 and features a striking black dial with warm champagne subdial rings.
This example recently graduated from the Rolex CPO programme and is in excellent condition. The dial is flawless, the original full-link 78393 bracelet (with U-stamped clasp) has no stretch, and the case and bezel show only very minor hairlines. The movement, following its Rolex service, is running beautifully at 0 seconds per day, with 300° amplitude and a beat error of 0.0 ms.
The watch comes with its original inner (wooden) box, outer box, wallet, booklets, tags, original guarantee, and Rolex CPO card. It remains under Rolex warranty. These ’90s gold and two-tone Rolexes offer a distinctly warmer tone compared to their modern counterparts—and can still be had for what we think is head-scratchingly good value.