THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 168000
YEAR: 1987
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40MM
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

The Rolex Submariner 168000 is somewhat of an enigma: it’s a watch that most enthusiasts only stumble upon after years of collecting. The reference was quietly released in 1987 and was, when new, visually identical to the ref. 16800, which remained in production at the time. The only distinguishing feature was that the 168000 was made from 904L steel, offering greater corrosion resistance than its predecessor.

After only nine months of production, Rolex introduced yet another new reference, the 16610, featuring an upgraded movement. The 168000 was then quietly retired. Rolex would not use another six-digit reference for more than a decade, making this the first "six-digit Rolex" by over twelve years.

The transitional Rolex models of the mid-1980s are some of our favourites. During this period, the brand reworked much of its line-up and experimented with new dial manufacturing techniques and materials. Some of these were technically "imperfect", yet resulted in wonderfully unique and beautiful characteristics, such as the "cream dial" 16550, the "tropical" 16760, and this, the "stardust" 168000. Over the past four decades, the top lacquer on the dial has aged to create a mesmerising star-like pattern.

The tritium lume on the markers and hands has aged to a gentle creamy hue. The case has been lightly polished in the past and retains thick lugs and strong crown guards. The original full-link 93150 bracelet has just been re-pinned by Michael Young and is now in as-new condition. The clasp is a Rolex service replacement from 1999. 

The movement has recently been serviced and is running superbly at +2 s/day, with 288° amplitude and a 0.1 ms beat error.

With vintage and neo-vintage Rolex, the beauty is all in the details—and this is certainly one of the coolest pieces to come through the doors of Falco in recent months.