THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1680
YEAR: 1973
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

When it comes to “grail” vintage Rolex models, the Red Sub 1680 is perhaps at the top of many people’s lists (certainly here at Falco). This reference has gained a massive following over the years, perhaps because it was the first Submariner with a date function, or due to the sheer number of variations within the model—from dials to bezels.

Mk1–3 Red Subs feature “meters first” dials, and these are as rare as hen’s teeth. The watch we have here features the first “feet first” dial, the Mk4. The Submariner text really pops on these thanks to its white backing. Although made within a year of the other Red Sub we currently have in our fleet—and with exactly the same configuration—this example shows completely different character. The tritium lume on the hands and markers has developed a gentle creamy hue, perfectly complemented by the insert, which has aged to a lovely navy tone. The case has been polished before, but not for some time; the sleeve wear on the lugs and crown guards is exactly what we love to see.

The original 9315/380 folded-link bracelet shows minimal stretch. The clasp was replaced during a Rolex service in 1991. The movement has been freshly serviced and is running superbly at +4 s/day, with an amplitude of 272° and a beat error of 0.2 ms.

You really can’t beat an honest Red Sub.