THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1680
YEAR: 1978
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

Rolex released the reference 1680 in 1967 as the original “Date Sub,” more than a decade after the Submariner’s inception. It featured a distinctly different case design and a unique “Top Hat” crystal with the iconic cyclops magnifier. In the first decade of its life, these watches were affectionately known as “Red Subs” due to the distinctive red lettering on their dials. Over time, the Red Sub has become one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex models: a grail for many collectors, with a price tag to match.

In comparison, 1680s featuring white dials are perhaps some of the most underappreciated vintage Rolexes. Produced between 1976 and 1979, they feature white text across three dial variants, commonly referred to as the Mk1, Mk2, and Mk3.

The present example from 1979 features a Mk2 dial in superb condition. The tritium lume on the markers and hands has aged to a rich, creamy hue, and the dial remains free of imperfections. The case has only been lightly polished in the past and remains superbly strong. The original top hat crystal is included with the watch, though the previous owner fitted a T19 dome crystal, giving it a subtle Sea-Dweller look but without the added thickness.

I (Tommy) used to watch Stef get completely confused by the idea of a dome crystal on a 1680. However, the big man has now fallen in love with this watch, a perfect testament to the fact that nothing is certain in vintage watches, and our tastes do evolve.

The movement is running beautifully at +2 s/day, with an amplitude of 276° and a beat error of 0.1 ms. An honest example of a Rolex icon.