THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 16618
YEAR: 1991
BOX/PAPERS: YES/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: 18K YELLOW GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: 18K YELLOW GOLD
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
In 1988, Rolex released the next generation of the Submariner, the reference 16610, which remained largely unchanged for over 20 years. In the same year, they also introduced the full 18k yellow gold variant, the 16618. The watch was as visually striking as it was expensive: nearly six times the price of its steel sibling. As a result, Rolex produced far fewer, with a total of only 20,568 pieces made over the years.
What most people don’t know is that, in 1990 and 1991, Rolex made the bold move to produce two stone dials for the Submariner: onyx and lapis. The brand is well known for fitting stone dials to its Day-Date and Datejust lines, and these have become some of the most collectible vintage Rolexes in recent years. The 16618 we have here, however, represents the first and only time Rolex has done this within the Submariner line.
Lapis is a fascinating stone. It has been used in jewellery since Mesopotamian times and is notoriously difficult to source and work with. The most prized lapis comes from Afghanistan, and only the finest material is used for watch dials. If you’ve had the chance to read The Dial by Dr Helmut Crott, you’ll appreciate just how challenging these dials are to produce. It was only in 1977 that Stern Frères managed to manufacture them successfully, thanks to a technique known as ultrasonic boring. The dial itself is less half a mm thick—you can imagine how delicate it is. As a result, many cracked during production and had to be discarded.
Lapis dials are among the most sought-after due to their natural variation—no two are ever the same. This particular dial is flawless, with no cracks and only minimal amounts of pyrite (gold-coloured) and calcite (white) inclusions. It is easily one of the best lapis dials we have seen on any Rolex. The ocean-blue colour is vivid and truly pops against the gold case.
The case and bracelet remain in superb condition, both having seen minimal polishing. The crystal was replaced during a Rolex service in the mid-2000s. The watch comes complete with its inner and outer boxes, booklets, wallet, translation booklet, cloth, gold anchor, and punched papers. It was originally sold at Wempe in Berlin.
Examples like this are as rare as hen’s teeth, and the dial on this watch is certainly one of the finest we have seen based on previously sold pieces. A true IYKYK watch.