THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 5513
YEAR: 1978
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: TEXTILE NATO
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

The 5513 marque of the Submariner is arguably the most iconic of all. It also produced the greatest variety within the model across its 25-year production run. Introduced in 1963 with pointed crown guard cases and charming gilt dials and hands, the reference evolved through to 1988/89, when it featured glossy dials with white gold–surrounded tritium markers.

Gilt-dial 5513s were produced for only a few short years before matte dials were introduced around 1967. In the early 1970s, Rolex made another notable change, switching the primary depth measurement from meters to feet. This adjustment was likely driven by Rolex’s growing market share in the United States, where imperial measurements are standard.

The present example dates to 1978 and features a “Maxi I” dial—among the last of the matte-dial 5513s—named for its enlarged lume plots. The dial is excellent, with tritium markers and hands that have aged to an attractive, light creamy patina. The case is unpolished and shows extensive honest “sleeve wear,” where the original brushed finish has softened to an almost shiny appearance. This comes as no surprise: the watch comes from the second owner, who told us the original purchaser—his friend—wore it almost daily for over four decades. The original bezel insert has faded dramatically to a light grey-blue “ghost” tone.

The movement was serviced this summer and is running at +1 second per day, with 275 amplitude and a 0.2 ms beat error. If you’re looking for an honest, well-worn 5513, it really doesn’t get much better than this.