THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1675
YEAR: 1966
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
In vintage Rolex collecting, the GMT-Master 1675 is arguably one of the most interesting references (and Tommy’s personal favourite). Rolex introduced the GMT-Master line in 1954 with the reference 6542, initially created for airline pilots who needed to track more than one time zone at a time. The 6542 features a 38 mm case and a “Pepsi” Bakelite bezel—a downright gorgeous watch, though not the most practical due to the lack of crown guards and the fragility of the bezel insert.
A few years later, in 1959/60, the reference 1675 was born and remained in production until 1980. Over its 20-plus years of production, Rolex introduced numerous changes to the 1675, from the movement and case to the dials (transitioning from gilt to matte), and even the bezel design. These updates give 1675s from different eras distinct characters.
Among these variations, gilt-dial 1675s were produced only between 1959 and 1967 and are found in far smaller numbers than their matte counterparts. Despite the relatively short production run, Rolex experimented with a wide range of dial and case designs, which have since been extensively studied and categorised by scholars and collectors.
The present example features the final gilt dial, the “Type C” non-chapter ring, in the rarer “Wide Swiss” variation (the "Swiss T<25" is spread over the bottom 5 minute hashes, instead of 3.) It’s easily one of the prettiest 1675s we’ve ever had—the original markers and hands have aged to a beautiful creamy colour and glow brightly under UV light. The case remains very thick; while it has been polished previously, this was done sympathetically and in period—just look at the crown guards. The correct white date wheel with open 6s and 9s is still present. The red-back bezel insert is heavily faded to silver/copper tones, offering a striking contrast against the perfect mirror-finish gilt dial.
The correct 7206/80 rivet bracelet features a clasp stamped 1/68 and has negligible stretch. The bracelet has full links and will accommodate a 19.5 cm wrist.
The watch runs smoothly at +4 seconds per day, with an amplitude of 265 and a beat error of 0.4 ms. It’s hard to describe how beautiful gilt 1675s are until you try one on—their warmth and depth are simply mesmerising.