THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 16570
YEAR: 1991
BOX/PAPERS: YES/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 40MM
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

It’s hardly a secret that the Chicchi 16570 is one of our favourite Rolex references. It combines the everyday practicality of a five-digit Rolex—with features such as a sapphire crystal and an independently adjustable hour hand—with the unique charm of a creamy patina that develops over time, something more commonly associated with four-digit references.

For many years, the Explorer II was an underappreciated gem in the world of vintage Rolex collecting. That has changed in recent times, with early models such as the 1655 “Steve McQueen” and the 16550 now commanding considerable attention from collectors, along with ever-increasing price tags.

The 16550 was produced for just four years before being replaced in 1989 by the model we see here: the 16570. Over time, collectors began to notice that the tritium lume on certain 16570s could age to a warm, creamy tone, earning these examples the nickname Chicchi di Mais ("corn kernels").

The present example dates to 1991 and is a wonderful ambassador of the Chicchi. The tritium lume on the hour markers has aged to a rich, creamy hue, offering beautiful contrast against the white dial. The lume on the hands is slightly lighter, which is extremely common on these watches. The case has been polished in the past but remains very strong, and the original 78360 bracelet shows minimal stretch.

The movement has just been serviced by us and is running beautifully at 0 s/d, with 290° amplitude and zero beat error. The watch comes with its original inner box, Rolex service papers, and the original guarantee from Hong Kong, dated 1993—two whole years after the watch was manufactured.

A wonderful neo-vintage gem, and one that looks particularly good when paired with a beige jumper from M&S.