THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 16550
YEAR: 1985
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

As far as “transitional” Rolex references go, the Explorer II 16550 is among the most interesting and desirable. Following the commercial obscurity of the reference 1655 “Steve McQueen” (hard to imagine today), the 16550 was introduced with a new movement featuring a quickset date, hacking seconds, and the novel addition of an independently adjustable GMT hand.

Despite its short four-year production run, the 16550 went through several dial variations. Early examples featured white-gold surrounds (WGS) on the hour markers, while later ones switched to black surrounds. By far the most desirable are the so-called “cream dial” versions. Due to a manufacturing imperfection, the dials on certain 16550s aged to a striking creamy tone, most commonly seen on WGS examples.

This example dates to the middle of 16550 production in 1985 and has been blessed by time. The tritium lume on the markers has aged to a dark cream tone as have the hands. The watch has been worn and enjoyed over the years, the case has been polished in the past. We have not had the bezel re painted but this can be facilitated if the new owner would prefer. Nevertheless, it remains beautiful on the wrist and is easily one of the watches that pairs best with Stef’s famous beige jumper.

The movement is running beautifully at +3 s/day, with an amplitude of 280° and a beat error of 0.1 ms. The original (I6) stamped 78360/501 bracelet is mint after a recent restoration.