THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1655
YEAR: 1978
BOX/PAPERS: YES/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 39mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC
The Explorer 1655 was designed with a very specific audience in mind: cave explorers who, when working underground for extended periods in darkness, could easily lose their sense of time, particularly whether it was day or night. The introduction of a fixed 24-hour bezel and a large luminous 24-hour hand addressed this niche need. Combined with a rugged case, it became the perfect companion for adventurous pursuits.
However, much like the Paul Newman Daytonas with exotic dials, the 1655 wasn’t particularly popular at the time among retail customers. Most watches then were elegant and simple, whereas this model was often described as “cluttered” and “illegible” by both collectors and writers. Fifty years later, the story has changed completely, and the 1655 has become one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex models.
Curiously, the watch carries the nickname “Steve McQueen” because he was depicted wearing the 1655 in various advertisements, although he never actually wore one; he was more often seen with a 5512 Submariner.
Fast-forward to today, and the model has gained significant traction among Rolex collectors and vintage enthusiasts. The 1655 is becoming increasingly difficult to source, both for the reasons above and because many were used as intended. Finding complete and original examples in great condition is no easy task.
This particular piece dates to 1978 and features a Mk4 dial and Mk3 bezel, perfectly aligned with its serial. The original 78360/580 Oyster bracelet, stamped VC for 1978, is one link short. The case has been polished, but the lugs remain nice and full. The tritium markers and hands have aged to a lovely medium cream tone.
The watch comes complete with its inner and outer boxes, wallet, booklet, translation papers, and punched guarantee.
The movement came to us in great health and is running at +4 s/day, with an amplitude of 285° and a beat error of 0.3 ms.