THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 16238
YEAR: 1989
BOX/PAPERS: NO/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 36MM
CASE MATERIAL: 18K YELLOW GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

In the early days of vintage Rolex collecting, almost all of the attention was focused exclusively on Bubblebacks. Starting in the 1990s and 2000s, however, vintage sports models, led by Daytonas and followed by the likes of Submariners and GMT-Masters, slowly took over the baton as the most collectible and studied references. It was only in more recent years that Rolex’s dressier offerings, particularly Datejusts and Day-Dates in precious metals with special dials, started gaining traction within the collector community. These watches were made in much smaller numbers than stainless steel sports models, and often carrying original price tags five to ten times higher. 

The Datejust 16238 here dates to 1989 and features a wonderful Ferrite dial. Ferrite is mostly known for its use in industrial settings due to its electrical resistivity and magnetic permeability. Ferrite compounds are, in fact, intrinsically very low cost, being made mostly from iron oxide. However, Rolex somehow managed to engineer it into a dial that was fitted primarily to five-digit Day-Dates and, much more rarely, Datejusts (like this one).

The dial has a very unique aesthetic: its texture and colour play beautifully with light, showing a distinctive blue-greyish black appearance with a subtle metallic sheen. This example remains in near-perfect condition: the dial is flawless, and the 18k yellow gold case shows only minor marks, having remained unworn for years until the previous owner acquired it. The caseback sticker is still in place. 

Originally sold in 1990, the watch was supplied on a leather strap, as indicated by the stamp on the papers, and appears to have barely been worn. The movement came to us in great health, running at +2 s/d, with 305° amplitude and a 0.1 ms beat error, ready for its new journey.