THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: ROLEX
MODEL: 1601/8
YEAR: 1969
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 36mm
CASE MATERIAL: 18K ROSE GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

The Rolex Datejust, introduced in 1945 as the world’s first automatic wristwatch with a date display, has been a cornerstone of the Rolex lineup for nearly 80 years. Despite its status as one of Rolex’s most iconic designs, the Datejust is often overlooked by collectors in favour of its more prominent counterparts, such as the GMT, Submariner, and Daytona.

Many perceive the Datejust as an “entry-level” Rolex—a more affordable option for those dipping their toes into vintage Rolex collecting—or as the “first watch to ask for” at your local AD to get on “the list” for that BLRO. However, not all Datejusts were born equal—just look at the present example, ref. 1601/8.

While most 1601s were produced in stainless steel or steel-and-gold combinations, typically paired with Jubilee bracelets, a select few were crafted entirely in precious metals, such as the 18K rose gold example we have here. Adding to its rarity, this watch is fitted with its original “cappuccino” brown dial, whereas most 1601/8s were delivered with silver or champagne dials.

The rarity of this gorgeous Datejust is matched only by its remarkable condition. It has clearly been more admired than worn over its lifetime. The 18K yellow gold case, with its sharp fluted bezel, is in outstanding condition, while the brown “pie-pan” dial remains spotless. There is extensive oxidation on the case—something only seen on gold watches that have lived a largely sedentary life.

The watch came to us in excellent health, with the movement running at +4 seconds per day, an amplitude of 260, and a beat error of 0.4 ms. These early four-digit gold Datejusts offer superb value compared to their modern counterparts and wear exceptionally well.