THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: PATEK PHILIPPE
MODEL: 5196R
YEAR: 2018
BOX/PAPERS: YES/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 37MM
CASE MATERIAL: 18K ROSE GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND

The Patek Philippe Ref. 96 is the original Calatrava, introduced in 1932 as the first model released by the brand after its acquisition by the Stern family. The model enjoyed an astonishingly long production run of four decades, during which dozens of variations were produced, differing in case material, dial colour, and design. Nearly 100 years later, the model remains a cornerstone of Patek Philippe’s lineup and a blueprint for understated elegance and functional minimalism.

In 1982, amidst the quartz crisis that nearly brought the entire Swiss watch industry to its knees, Patek returned to its heritage and released the ref. 3796, a direct and respectful descendant of the Ref. 96, still featuring a 31 mm case just like the original. The 3796 again had a fantastic run of nearly two decades. 

In 2004, Patek Philippe released the 5196R, a modern interpretation of the Calatrava range featuring a much more contemporary 37 mm case. The 5196 became a staple in the Patek Philippe line-up until very recently, in 2022. 

The ref. 5196R here features a 18K rose gold case, classic silver dial, applied gold markers, rose hour, minute, and sub-second hand. The watch came from the original owner, who purchased it in 2018 and only tried on several times at home. It of course comes with all of its original boxes, paperwork, and receipt. 

The movement is running as you would expect. +1 s/d, 285 amps with a beat error of 0.1.

Simply wonderful.