THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: MATHEY-TISSOT
YEAR: 1940s
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 35MM
CASE MATERIAL: 18K YELLOW GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND
If I (Tommy) were to describe my favourite chronograph, it would go something like this: a 35.5 mm round case in precious metal, made in the 1940s or ’50s, two-register layout, powered by a Valjoux 23 movement. Yes — it’s a Patek Philippe ref. 1463 (in any metal, preferably with Breguet numerals). Unfortunately, I don’t currently have the six-figure budget required for a good example. I’d happily settle for a 33mm ref. 130, or perhaps the elusive Breguet chronograph from the same period…
You can only imagine the acceleration of my heart rate when I first spotted this watch among a pile of rather obscure (including Frankenstein) chronographs.
Founded in 1886 by Edmond Mathey-Tissot, the eponymous brand quickly gained recognition as a premium watchmaker, producing complications such as calendars and minute repeaters in the early 1900s (despite its name, it has no relation to Tissot). During both World Wars, Mathey-Tissot manufactured military watches for the US and UK armed forces, thanks to its reputation for precision. The brand’s most well-known watch, however, is undoubtedly the Type XX — the French military-commissioned chronograph. Not only were they among the original suppliers alongside Breguet, but Breguet also commissioned Mathey-Tissot during early production.
Much like Breguet (and Patek Philippe, for that matter), Mathey-Tissot produced pure precious-metal chronographs in extremely small numbers, often by commission, during the uncertain years of the 1940s and ’50s. The present example is easily one of the most beautiful watches to pass through our doors in quite some time. The simple cream dial, generous 35 mm case, square pushers, fine minute track and tachymeter scale, applied markers, and gold hands — the details would make many vintage chronograph lovers blush.
Inside, the Mathey-Tissot-signed Valjoux movement has been well cared for and is running beautifully at +2 s/d, 260 amplitude, with a 0.3 ms beat error. The hammerhead (143) hallmark indicates that the case was made by Nardin & Cie.
A superb mid-century chronograph — simply breathtaking.