THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: IWC
MODEL: IW2050
YEAR: 1994
BOX/PAPERS: YES/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 36MM
CASE MATERIAL: PLATINUM
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND
At Falco, one of the questions we’re asked most often is: “What still represents good value in the vintage or neo-vintage world?” While value is inherently subjective, there are certain watches that make such a compelling case that even the most sceptical watch nerds would struggle to argue otherwise.
Among the strongest candidates are perpetual calendars from the 1980s and 1990s. For many years, watches such as the Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel and the Patek Philippe 3940 could be purchased for a fraction of the price of their much simpler and originally, far cheaper stainless steel sports counterparts. In recent years, they’ve begun to receive the attention they deserve, with steadily rising prices to match. Still, one could argue that even at £40–50k, the Patek 3940 remains exceptional value, particularly when compared to the modern 5327, which costs roughly double.
Which makes it all the more remarkable that we’re able to present the watch you see here. The IWC Portofino Romana was released in 1994 as a continuation of an idea first pioneered by the great Kurt Klaus. With the Da Vinci, the legendary IWC watchmaker devised a perpetual calendar system that eliminated the usual cluster of correctors and pushers, allowing the entire module to be adjusted via the crown. The system automatically accounts for varying month lengths, leap years, and even century transitions, requiring no manual intervention beyond winding.
Klaus took things a step further with this reference, unveiling the Calibre 84961: a manually wound perpetual calendar movement measuring just 3.1 mm thick, making it the thinnest perpetual calendar movement in the world at the time. Here, instead of crown-based adjustment, a single pusher at 10 o’clock advances the day, date, month, year, and moonphase in perfect synchrony.
Technological achievement aside, this is easily one of the most beautiful watches IWC has ever produced. The design is impeccably balanced and understated. The muted grey dial features four textured subdials displaying the date, month, day, and moonphase, along with a year indicator at seven o’clock. The 37 mm case wears beautifully on the wrist, echoing the elegant proportions of its Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet contemporaries.