THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: IWC
MODEL: IW3750
YEAR: c1990
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 39MM
CASE MATERIAL: 18K WHITE GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

At Falco, one of the questions we’re asked most often is: “What still represents good value in the vintage or neo-vintage world?” While value is inherently subjective, there are certain watches that make such a compelling case that even the most sceptical watch enthusiasts would struggle to argue otherwise.

Among the strongest candidates are perpetual calendars from the 1980s and 1990s. For years, watches like the Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel and the Patek Philippe 3940 could be bought for a fraction of the price of their much simpler—and originally much cheaper—stainless steel sports counterparts. In recent years, they have finally begun receiving the attention they deserve, with steadily rising prices to match. Even so, one could argue that at £40–50k, the Patek 3940 still represents exceptional value, particularly when compared to the modern 5327, which costs roughly twice as much.

Which makes it all the more remarkable that we’re able to present the watch you see here. The IWC ref. IW3750 was a continuation of an idea first pioneered by the great Kurt Klaus. The legendary IWC watchmaker devised a perpetual calendar system that eliminated the usual cluster of correctors and pushers (often operated with a cocktail stick, as many perpetual calendar owners will know). Instead, his ingenious module could be adjusted entirely via the crown. It automatically accounts for the varying lengths of months, leap years, and even the four-year leap-year cycle, requiring virtually no manual intervention beyond keeping the watch running. 

As if that weren’t enough, the IW3750 also features a chronograph, all housed within a 39 mm 18K white gold case measuring under 15 mm thick, including the domed crystal. The IW3750 debuted at Baselworld in 1985 and marked the beginning of IWC’s remarkable lineage of perpetual calendar watches, a collection that many credit with helping save the brand during the difficult years of the 1980s. IWC’s advertising campaign was arguably even bolder than Kurt Klaus’ ingenious design: something unimaginable in today’s world (Easter egg in the last image...)

The case has been beautifully preserved on this example, showing only minor marks throughout, while the original white dial remains pristine. All of the tritium lume has aged to a gorgeous creamy hue. Putting this on the wrist, it simply does not make sense that this grand complication (a Patek 3970 equivalent) costs less than most modern stainless steel Rolex sports models.

The movement came to us freshly serviced and is running at +3 s/d, with 284° amplitude and a 0.1 ms beat error.

It has been a true joy to stock, photograph, and write about this piece—we can only hope it brings its next owner as much happiness as it has brought us.