THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: IWC
MODEL: CAL.89
YEAR: 1946
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 36MM
CASE MATERIAL: 18K YELLOW GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND
In my (Tommy’s) never-ending pursuit to rationalise vintage watch collecting, I often practise a common (and perhaps silly) exercise: evaluating the various factors that seemingly contribute to the “value” of a watch. The list is decently long — brand, history, innovation, finishing, rarity, and nowadays even the value of the materials themselves. In most instances, the calculation makes some sense. For example, the matte-dial Rolex GMT-Master 1675 and the Patek Calatrava 3590 we brought to you this week are similar in value today, yet for completely different reasons (nevertheless, both feel reasonable and fair). However, in other cases, the value of certain models appears entirely devoid of rationality. On one end, you have examples such as certain exotic-dial Daytonas or early Speedmasters (we love them nonetheless); on the other, you wonder how a watch like this IWC Cal.89 can still be had for the price it carries.
In 1944, IWC appointed Albert Pellaton as its new Technical Director. As the war drew to a close, the mindset in watchmaking shifted toward optimism and innovation. The Cal.89 series dress watch was born in 1946 and remained in production for nearly three decades. While many mid-century dress watches typically featured cases ranging from 31–34 mm (with anything above 35 mm often dubbed a “Jumbo”), these Cal.89 models were ahead of their time, most commonly measuring between 35 and 36.5 mm.
We all know IWC’s quality — but these dress watches also showcase an extraordinary variety of design elements, making nearly every example unique: lug shapes, case designs, markers, hands, materials — the list goes on.
The present example dates back to the very beginning of the model's production in 1948. It features a 36 mm stepped case in full 18k yellow gold and beautiful “spider” lugs that still hint at Art Deco design. The dial has aged to a gorgeous creamy hue with an even patina, beautifully captured by Jake. For us, the star of the show is the rare square markers — quirky yet elegant. Inside, the Cal.89 movement arrived in great health, running at +3 s/d, 262° amplitude, with a 0.3 ms beat error. Eighty years later, even the original buckle remains in place.
And yet, this mid-century beauty can be had for little more than its current melt value...
Unless dress watches simply aren’t your thing, it’s genuinely difficult not to fall in love with this watch once it’s on your wrist. Eight decades on, it proudly awaits its next companion.