THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: HEUER
MODEL: 3147S
YEAR: 1968
BOX/PAPERS: NO/YES
CASE DIAMETER: 36mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND

The year 1963 saw the birth of two of the most iconic sports chronographs: the Rolex Daytona and the Heuer Carrera. Unlike Rolex—known for its slow-and-steady design evolution (a 6265 from 1988 and a 6239 from 1963 are largely the same watch)—Heuer introduced far more variations of the Carrera, each with distinct design elements. Heuer also placed greater emphasis on legibility and functionality when refining the Carrera, whereas Rolex focused on improving the waterproofness and robustness of the Daytona.

In 1966, Heuer released the reference 3147 “Dato,” the first Carrera to feature a date function. The first execution of this model used symmetrical double registers like the Carrera 45, with the date window placed at 12 o’clock—earning it the nickname “Dato 12.” While visually striking, it had a fundamental design flaw: the chronograph seconds hand blocked the date window when reset to zero. A few more sketches—and perhaps a few drinks—later, the second execution 3147 was born: the Dato 45.

The present example is the silver-dial version of the Dato 45, featuring a date window at 9 o’clock and a single white minute-totaliser at 3 o’clock. The result is arguably one of the quirkiest and most distinctive designs in the entire Carrera lineup. It also represents the pinnacle of Jack Heuer’s minimalist, legibility-first design ethos—so minimal, in fact, that it omits even a running seconds hand. As Heuer declared in a 1969 advertisement, this watch was made “for the businessman who needs a chronograph but can never remember the date.”

Originally sold in Lancashire, the watch remains in great shape. There’s some minor discolouration between the 12–1 markers and between 2–3, just below the outer chapter ring. All markers are intact, as is the lume on the hands. The case is unpolished and well-preserved, and the watch comes with its original guarantee. These second-execution Dato 45s are very uncommon—and amazingly, they can still be had for less than Hodinkee’s 2021 reissue.