THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: DOXA
MODEL: 300T
YEAR: c1970
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 42.5MM
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

Originally founded in 1889 by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle, Doxa began as a traditional Swiss watchmaker. However, it was in the mid-twentieth century that the brand truly made its mark in the world of dive watches. Among dive watch enthusiasts, Doxa is widely recognised as a true innovator in purpose-built underwater tools. The tonneau-shaped SUB 300 and SUB 300T not only featured bold, forward-thinking designs but also introduced technical innovations such as the helium escape valve and the unidirectional bezel, features later adopted by industry giants such as Rolex and Omega.

Like many other brands, Doxa was hit hard by the Quartz Crisis. The SUB 300T, introduced in 1968, was discontinued just a few years later in the mid-1970s, leaving relatively few original examples in circulation today. Thankfully, the brand has enjoyed a revival in recent years, with a series of well-received reissues that have reignited interest in these historically significant watches.

The present example features the most recognisable iteration of the original SUB 300T, with its bright orange dial: a colour chosen following extensive underwater visibility testing. The case proudly carries the character it has earned over the years, while the tritium dial remains spotless. We have paired the watch with a period lobster-style bracelet, although it looks equally at home on a beads-of-rice bracelet or a NATO.

The movement has been freshly serviced and is running at +4 s/d, with 290° amplitude and a 0.3 ms beat error. The watch has also passed a 5-bar pressure test.

There are few vintage dive watches that combine historical importance, technical innovation, rarity, and outright awesomeness quite like the SUB 300T. Such a formidable watch.