THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: BLANCPAIN
MODEL: FIFTY FATHOMS
YEAR: 1966
CASE DIAMETER: 41mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: TEXTILE
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

In the world of dive watches, while the Rolex Submariner is rightly the most famous, it was Blancpain that introduced the first purpose-built dive watch: the Fifty Fathoms. Its creation was not just an exercise in engineering, but the result of a remarkable collaboration between military necessity and civilian innovation.

The story begins in wartime France, where Jacques Cousteau, a decorated resistance fighter, helped adapt a fuel regulator into what became the Aqualung, unlocking the ability to explore beneath the waves. But air alone was not enough—divers needed a reliable way to measure time. Fast forward to 1952, when Captain Bob Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud were tasked with forming the French Combat Swimmers. They required a watch capable of withstanding extreme conditions: highly legible, automatic, and water-resistant. No existing watch met their standards. After being turned away by French manufacturers, they were introduced to Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain’s co-CEO and an avid diver who understood the challenges firsthand.

Fiechter brought their vision to life, incorporating groundbreaking features such as a double-gasket crown, screw-down caseback, and a locking rotating bezel. It also happened to be one of the most beautiful watches ever designed. In 1953, the Fifty Fathoms was issued to Maloubier’s elite unit, its bold 42 mm case dwarfing most watches of the era. Its reputation was cemented when Cousteau wore one in The Silent World, inspiring a generation of divers. Across the Atlantic, the U.S. Navy adopted the Fifty Fathoms for its combat divers, marketed under the Tornek-Rayville name in accordance with post-war “Buy American Act” regulations.

A decade later, the Fifty Fathoms evolved again with the introduction of the “No Radiations” dial, featuring a redesigned 41mm case and new bezel architecture. The distinctive logo at six o’clock indicated the use of tritium in place of radium, and has since become one of the most recognisable and collectible designs amongst watch collectors. The present example dates to the early days of the “No Rad” era: ironically retaining a radium bezel insert.

We’ll let the Jake's photos do most of the talking. Vintage Fifty Fathoms are among the most difficult dive watches to find, particularly these conditions. This is one of the most remarkable watches to have passed through the doors of Falco, and one we are proud to present.