THE ESSENTIALS

MAKE: AUDEMARS PIGUET
MODEL: 5402
YEAR: 1976
CASE DIAMETER: 39mm
CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
BRACELET MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL
MOVEMENT: AUTOMATIC

The original Royal Oak, reference 5402, was designed by Gérald Genta and released in 1972 as the first luxury stainless steel sports watch—Audemars Piguet’s response to the quartz crisis. With its 39 mm case (considered large for its time, hence the nickname “Jumbo”), octagonal bezel, tapisserie dial, and iconic integrated bracelet, the 5402’s bold and angular design was far ahead of its era.

Over the next 50 years, the Royal Oak became one of the most popular and collectible models in the world of horology, with Audemars Piguet experimenting with a wide variety of designs to meet the demands of different audiences—from variations in dials and materials to sizes and even movements. Nevertheless, the 39 mm “Ultra-Thin Jumbo” remains the brand’s flagship model even today, with the design largely unchanged from the original reference.

It’s not hard to understand why. My (Tommy’s) wrist would usually only suit a 36–37 mm watch, but putting on a 5402 is nothing short of magic.