THE ESSENTIALS
MAKE: AUDEMARS PIGUET
MODEL: 5093
YEAR: c1958
BOX/PAPERS: NO/NO
CASE DIAMETER: 32mm
CASE MATERIAL: 18K YELLOW GOLD
BRACELET MATERIAL: LEATHER
MOVEMENT: MANUAL WIND
Whilst the Royal Oak is one of the most iconic watches of all time—and arguably saved Audemars Piguet, shaping the brand into what it is today after Gérald Genta's famous stroke of genius in 1972—the manufacture had, in fact, produced an incredible array of watches in the century leading up to it. Unfortunately, many of these watches and their stories are poorly documented and have been lost to time. This, however, arguably makes vintage AP collecting even more exciting, particularly as many models were produced in extremely limited numbers.
In the 1950s, AP worked with independent German designer Gebhard Duve, who created a series of watches including the example seen here, known as the “Discovolante.” Italian for “flying saucer,” the name is fitting given the watch’s unmistakable design, characterised by a broad, stepped bezel. Similar aesthetics can be found in period designs from brands such as Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Universal Genève. This particular watch dates to the 1950s and features a 32 mm case that is shockingly thin, thanks to the ultra-slim Calibre 2003 movement.
Aside from the signature on the dial, it is hard to imagine this watch coming from the same manufacture that would later produce the integrated-bracelet Royal Oak. The crosshair dial remains in lovely condition after seven decades, having developed a gentle creamy patina while retaining crisp, sharp printing throughout. The case is also exceptionally well preserved: the stepped bezel and applied hour markers show sharp definition, and the caseback engravings and hallmarks remain remarkably clear.
On the wrist, the watch wears similarly to a Patek Philippe reference 96—small by modern standards, yet supremely elegant. The movement has been recently serviced and is running at a respectable +5 s/day, with an amplitude of 230° and a beat error of 0.5 ms. A beautiful vintage Audemars Piguet that looks equally at home on a man’s or a woman’s wrist.
(Thanks to Tony Traina and AP Chronicles for their articles on the AP Discovolante, which greatly helped with the research.)